What are the LT1 bolt ons?
Colt Air Intake (CAI) (brands: Moroso, K&N, SLP, IRS, Hypertech(Air Foil), etc.)
- $150 to $300 - Replaces the stock Air Box and Filter with larger filter(K&N Usually) and better flowing intake tract that connects to the MAF Sensor.
Mass Air Flow Sensor Ends (MAF Ends) - $50 to ? - Replaces stock MAF ends and Maf screen with a ported set of MAF Ends that still utilize the original MAF Sensor. Please note that ported MAFs can respond unpredictably and have caused driveability problems in some cars. The stock MAF flows enough for 400+ hp so most bolt-on cars won't need MAF upgrades.
1LE Elbow - Approx $70 - Replaces the stock unit with a smoother unit that does away with the silencer(the donkey dong on the bottom of the stock elbow).
Air Foil/Air Charger - $30 to $60 - Bolts to the front of the Stock Throttle Body to smooth out the airflow going into the intake.
Throttle Body (aka a "TB") - Starting around $320 for a 52MM or 58MM BBK which is the most often purchased TB, or you can port them yourself free of charge if you have a dremel at your disposal.
Catback Exhaust (Brands: Hooker, Mac, BBK, SLP, Borla, Flowmaster, FLP, Edlebrock, Magnaflow) - $250 to Custom - A performance exhaust system that starts after the catalytic converter and generally includes all pipes, the mufller, and tips.
Headers - $300 to Custom - Shorties include Hooker, Mac, Edlebrock, BBK, etc. and Longtubes include Hooker, FLP, etc. and custom setups from Kooks and other manufacturers.
Y-Pipes - $250 to Custom - Y-Pipes are generally included in Shorty Header systems but not always and are rarely included in Longtube Header systems. Y-Pipes are shaped like a "Y" and connect both header collectors to the I-Pipe which connects to the Muffler System.
Cutout/Electric Cut-Out - $30/$200 - Exhaust dump best placed infront of the cats or as far down the I-Pipe as possible if you wish to stay emmisions legal.
160 Degree Thermostat - $20 - A thermostat which opens at a lower temperature allowing the car to run cooler, usually used in conjunction with a Hypertech Power Programmer or a Fan Switch that allows you to turn the fans on earler as well.
Underdrive Pullies (Crank and Alternator) - $60 to $100 - These pullies are resized and replace the stock pullies allowing the motor to free up some lost HP that was formerly used to turn the accessories. The pullies free up HP by turning the accessories slower requiring less effort from the motor.
Maunal Fan Switch - Free to $75- Used to manualy turn the radiator fans on and off when needed. TO do so for free, all you need is an automotive relay, switch, and some wire....10bucks at radioshack
Hypertech Power Programmer - ~$330+ - Used to lower fan activation temperatures, rev limiters, fuel curve, gear ratio's, change in tire size, etc.
Tunercat/LT1edit - An alternative to Hypertech that will allow you to manualy adjust a larger variety of settings within the PCM.
Weight Loss - FREE!!! - Any thing that you can do without on the car and are willing to yank out. Weight is the ultimate name of the game and you will see the most gains from weight loss..weight is 90% of racing. The general rule of thumb is 100 lbs off the car equals one tenth reduction in 1/4 mile ET.
The most often asked question is "what are the first mods I should do to increase my car's performance?". Basically, all a car wants/needs to make more power is air. Increase the amount of air going into and out of the motor and you will increase the power output. Best way to do this is to increase the volume of air going into the motor while also maintaining a high air velocity. The first few mods installed on the car should be purchased to accomplish this. First and foremost, the most productive component you can install to get the most power from your stock car is the CAI. From there, most people move on to installing the Catback exhaust. Dont buy a complete longtube exhaust system with custom piping, no cats, and cutout expecting to see maximum gains when you havent touched the intake system yet. You always want to try and balance out the intake and exhaust system so that you have an equally balanced motor, otherwise you are leaving power out on the table. First few power mods should be a complete intake system and complete exhaust system (CAI, MAF Ends, Airfoil or TB, Header, Y-pipe, Catback or Cutout). Once you have accomplished this, then you have a good solid base from which to build a stout, internally modified motor. Basically, being able to get the air into and outta the motor as fast as possible will create the most power.
Special thanks to Gangly@LS1TECH for this writeup